Maintenance Manual - VI Modular Homes
Maintenance Manual
VI Modular Homes Ltd.
9534 Trans Canada Hwy
Chemainus, BC
V0R 1K4
(250) 324-2288
Congratulations on your recent park model purchase. We are confident you will be happy with your purchase for many years to come.
V.I. Modular Homes Ltd. distributes park models constructed by highly skilled and qualified home builders who are familiar with our building codes and environment. The park models supplied by V.I. Modular Homes Ltd. come with a one year warranty on structure, materials and workmanship. The individual warranties on supplied components such as appliances, floor coverings, roofing, etc. is supplied within the Park Model. A thorough review of this manual and the written material within your park model package, including sending in the registration cards is the only way to ensure your purchase is properly protected.
While we truly believe that your park model will be a care free investment for many years, if you deem that you have an issue that should be covered by these warranties, we ask that you complete and submit a deficiency form, upon identifying the problem, so that V.I. Modular Homes Ltd. can assess the problem and get the right people involved to assist with a solution.
While the utmost of care has been taken in constructing your Park Model
It was crafted by humans and mistakes may have occurred
We believe that it’s what is done about them that really counts!
Maintenance
& Warranty Manual
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to your new home. Your builder (VI Modular Homes) is pleased to provide this manual as a summary of the more important maintenance issues you can expect to encounter with regard to caring for your new home. (“home” means Park Model where inserted herein)
No home is maintenance free. Proper and timely maintenance can extend the life of many of the components and systems incorporated in your new home and help you to protect your investment. These maintenance recommendations are intended to provide you with a basic understanding of the maintenance requirements of your home, however, should any questions arise, please contact your builder directly or the specific product supplier or manufacturer.
Undertaking maintenance is not for everyone. If you are uncomfortable undertaking any specific maintenance task, hire a professional. This manual is not intended to deal with all common property maintenance issues related to a strata titled residential project. Common property maintenance is the responsibility of the Strata Corporation and additional training and information is required.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Further to a review of your warranty documentation (please refer to Appendix B), if you feel that a defect exists which is covered under the warranty, please provide written correspondence to your builder/warranty administrator using the forms contained in this manual. Upon receipt, your builder will contact you to set up an appropriate time to review your concerns so that they may be dealt with efficiently. Throughout the first year, your house will generally experience some settlement/shrinkage of the building components (particularly the wood framing materials) which will result in some minor cracking of drywall, tiles or other cosmetic flaws. Floor squeaks may also occur. It is a good idea to deal with these items towards the end of your first year of occupancy to allow for the majority of the settlement to occur.
Please ensure that you review all of your warranty documentation carefully so that you are aware of all deadlines and warranty claim procedures.
OWNER’S DUTY TO MITIGATE AND MAINTAIN
You are required to maintain your new home and mitigate any damage to your new home, including damage caused by defects or water penetration. You must take all reasonable steps to restrict damage to your new home if the defect requires immediate attention. For defects covered by warranty, the duty to mitigate is met through timely notice in writing to VI Modular Homes.
An owner’s duty to mitigate survives even if;
a) The new home is unoccupied,
b) The new home is occupied by someone else other than the homeowner,
c) Water penetration does not appear to be causing damage, or
d) The owner advises the strata corporation about the defect.
Unfortunately, if a defect occurs or is made worse due to an owner’s failure to follow the maintenance procedures provided, or to mitigate any damage, it will be excluded from warranty coverage.
EMERGENCY SITUATIONS
In emergency situations, please contact your builder directly. If your builder cannot be reached, it is your responsibility to locate a qualified resource for information on the appropriate actions to be taken. The following is a synopsis of a few emergency situations and what actions should be taken prior to contacting your builder or warranty provider.
PLUMBING
Water Line Burst
A water line can burst due to a number of reasons, such as a loose joint, freezing, etc. and should be dealt with immediately. If the burst occurs between a fixture and a shutoff valve, close the shut-off immediately. If no shut-off exists, locate the main water shut-off (usually located where the water line enters your new home in the basement or crawl space), and turn it off until the problem can be repaired. It is also advisable to turn off your hot water tank to prevent overheating while the water supply is shut off.
Plugged Fixture or Sewer Line
This generally occurs because of inappropriate materials being flushed down a toilet or drain by users of the facility. Do not continue use of toilets or sinks once a major blockage has occurred. Attempt to unclog the line using a plunger. If a larger blockage occurs, the services of a plumber may be required. If the blockage is due to a proven builder defect then the builder will take full responsibility for the problem.
Minor Plumbing Leak in the Line or Hot Water Tank
Put a container under the leak and contact your builder. If major leakage occurs at the hot water tank, immediately shut off the water supply as well as the gas valve or electrical breaker.
Frozen Water Line
If garden hoses are left attached to hose bibs during the winter, freezing of the water line can occur. This is problematic once the pipes thaw as they may leak. If a major leak occurs, follow the steps described above regarding “Water Line Burst”. If accessible, heating the pipe with a hair dryer may thaw it out. If the frozen pipe is due to a proven builder defect, the builder will take full responsibility for the repair.
ELECTRICAL
Circuit Overload (Breaker Tripping)
If this occurs, ensure that the circuit is not overloaded with too many appliances, or that the appliance itself is not faulty. Appliances such as hair dryers, toasters and kettles that generate heat tend to draw a lot of electrical current. More than one of these types of appliances in use at the same time on the same circuit can cause circuit overload. Should circuit overload occur, unplug one or more of the appliances and reset the breaker. If tripping reoccurs, contact your builder. Ground fault circuit interrupters (G.F.C.I.s) protect your exterior plugs and those in your bathrooms. This device will either be located in the actual plug itself or be a dedicated breaker in your electrical panel. It is sensitive and designed to trip when grounding occurs due to damp conditions, or when extension cords are excessively long and/or in poor condition, or if appliances are faulty/old. Ensure that no unsafe situations exist, and that appliances and extension cords are unplugged, then reset the G.F.C.I.
Plugs and Outlets
If a plug or outlet sparks excessively, immediately turn off the breaker and contact your builder. A small spark when an appliance is unplugged is not uncommon.
All Power to your New Home is Out
If, for any reason, all the power in your home goes out, check to see if there is a power blackout in your neighborhood. If not, check your main breaker (in the electrical panel) and reset it after checking for a current overload.
HEATING
If your furnace does not appear to be operating, ensure that the breaker has not tripped and refer to your furnace manual to check lighting procedures. Also, check the thermostat setting to ensure it has not been turned down.
GAS
If, at any time, you smell gas contact your gas utility supplier immediately. They will check your system and advise you of any problems.
ROOF LEAKS
If a roof leak occurs, check for the following:
a) Plugged gutters or downspouts;
b) Debris on the roof;
c) Ice damming; or
d) Missing roof shingles.
Until the leak is repaired, place a bucket under the leak to protect your new home and contact your builder if a builder defect appears to be the cause.
E. MAINTENANCE ITEMS
EXTERIOR
DRIVEWAYS, SIDEWALKS AND PATIOS
Concrete
Driveways and sidewalks are generally made of concrete. Concrete is a strong material that wears well and will perform for many years. Following installation, concrete will shrink as it cures. This shrinkage causes stress in the concrete, which often results in surface cracks as this stress is released. This cracking can be controlled by the installation of control joints in the concrete. These deliberate joints in the concrete are more susceptible to cracking than the remainder of the slab, thereby preventing cracks from occurring in the slab surface itself.
Unfortunately, these control measures are not always effective and surface cracks can appear despite the builder’s best efforts. These cracks are generally cosmetic and do not require repair unless they constitute a tripping hazard that exceeds acceptable standards as set out by your warranty provider. Seasonal variations in temperature may also cause cracks in concrete slabs. Soil movement beneath the concrete due to frost penetration can crack and/or raise sections of the concrete. This change in height may change the direction of surface drainage causing water to pool against the foundation wall of your new home. Should this occur, repairs should be undertaken to prevent water from pooling as it may then seep through the foundation wall and into the home. Both of the instances above are natural occurrences that are beyond the builder’s control. Another potential cause of damage to concrete surfaces is road salt and other chemical contaminants. Road salt or other de-icing products used for ice control in the winter may adversely affect the surface of the concrete. As a result, road slush, which contains road salt, should not be allowed to melt on the concrete. A good alternative to de-icers, is sand or cat litter for increased traction on icy sections of the driveway or sidewalk. Common lawn fertilizer, contaminated surface water and run-off from stored materials can cause staining of the concrete surface that cannot be removed. Concrete sealers that are commercially available may reduce damage due to chemical contaminants. Care should be taken in the handling and storage of potential contaminants on or near any concrete surface.
Concrete Pavers
Manufactured concrete products such as paving stones, are also susceptible to surface damage and staining. The precautions pertaining to concrete surfaces listed above also apply to these products. Concrete pavers are installed on a bed of course sand or fine gravel. Some localized settlement may occur due to compaction of these materials. Should some areas settle excessively, lift out the pavers in the low area and add sand to level the area out. Suitable material for this repair can be purchased in bag form from most home supply centers.
Asphalt
Asphalt surfaces are seldom smooth and often have indentations. Tire impressions and checking or cracking at the edges due to expansion and contraction are other common characteristics. Damage to the surface may also occur in hot weather as the surface softens due to the heat. Sharp or pointed objects such as motorcycle kickstands or trailer hitches can penetrate the surface under such conditions. Gasoline and solvents will dissolve asphalt quickly. Any spills or fluid leakage from automobiles should be removed immediately. Periodic sealing of the asphalt surface (every two to five years) with an acrylic-based sealant is recommended. These products are readily available at most home supply centers.
Gravel
Gravel driveways require raking periodically to fill in depressions to maintain an even surface. Crowning the driveway to the center or sloping it to one side is a good method of controlling surface water.
SITE DRAINAGE AND GRADING
The intent of site drainage patterns is to prevent surface water from pooling near or against the perimeter foundation wall of your new home. This is accomplished adjacent to the house by sloping the soil away from the residence on all sides. Window wells are a means of providing a window for a basement below grade. Window wells must be kept free of ice, snow, leaves and other debris which may block the drainage system provided and flood your new home. Depressions due to soil compaction following construction may occur adjacent to the foundation walls. These depressions should be filled and graded to direct surface water away from the walls for a distance of at least two meters (6’). At no time should water be allowed to pool against the foundation walls. In addition to the drainage considerations adjacent to your new home, overall property drainage systems may include surface depressions (swales), drain tile curtain drains and catch basins. Ice, snow, leaves and other debris can block the flow of drainage and must be seasonally maintained by the owner. Care must be taken not to permanently alter the drainage flow so as to cause an ongoing drainage problem. During periods of excessive rainfall, standing water may occur due to soil saturation. Such conditions are beyond the control of the owner or builder.
DRAIN TILE AND SUMP
In most jurisdictions, there is a requirement for a perimeter drain tile system to be located below the level of the basement or crawlspace floor. This system is generally comprised of perforated pipes that are covered with gravel to allow water to seep into them. This drain tile carries the water away from the perimeter of the house to prevent it from accumulating against the foundation wall or footing. The drain tile then carries the water to a sump or catch basin. The sump allows any sediment in the water to settle to the bottom of the sump. The clear water is then drained off by another pipe to the municipal storm sewer, ditch or a rock pit located in the yard. Access pipes or cleanouts are installed to allow the perimeter drain tile to be inspected and cleaned. The location of these cleanouts should be identified for future reference. Sumps and catch basins should be cleaned every two years, as a minimum, to remove any excessive sediment, leaves or other debris. Exterior stairwells are often equipped with a drain and sump at the bottom of the stairwell to prevent flooding of the basement. These drains must be kept clear of debris. Deep-rooted plants or trees should be avoided next to the foundation walls as deep roots can clog a drain tile system. The requirement for a perimeter drain tile system may be waived by the authority having jurisdiction in arid regions, regions with free draining soils, or some rocky lots. In areas of blasted rock, it is virtually impossible to stop the movement of water through the rock. Exposed areas of rock in a crawlspace may seep water in wet conditions. Care must be taken to ensure that any visible water is drained away and that the area is adequately ventilated.
LANDSCAPING
Frequent watering of the grass is essential during the first few weeks after an area has been sodded or seeded. Once the grass is established, weekly watering is adequate. This will promote a deep root system that will result in a healthier, more drought resistant lawn. Frequent light watering results in a shallow root system that causes the lawn to dry out and die in drought conditions. For the same reason, grass should not be cut shorter than two inches in height. Fertilizing twice a year and controlling weeds will promote a healthy lawn. Consult your
local home garden centre for suitable products. During the spring thaw, do not allow snow or ice to accumulate in shaded areas as this will damage the grass. Any accumulations of snow should be distributed evenly over a large area so that it melts evenly. Some minor settlement will occur over some areas of new lawns or landscaping. These areas should be filled and re-seeded to maintain a level surface. When installing flowerbeds, be careful not to interfere with the drainage system. Ensure that flowerbeds are graded away from the foundation wall and that a minimum clearance of eight inches is maintained between the ground level and the bottom of the exterior wall cladding. Never allow soil or gravel to come in contact with untreated wood materials or your exterior finish. Trees and shrubs should be kept clear of the house. Deep rooted plants or trees could interfere with the performance of the perimeter drainage system of the house. Newly planted trees or shrubs require a shallow depression around their base. The depression should be worked periodically to loosen the soil to allow air and water to penetrate to the root system. Once the plant is established (approximately two years), the depression can be filled in; however, never raise the soil above the level of the base of the trunk as this will kill the tree. In some arid locations, the installation of lawns, planters, trees or shrubs directly adjacent to your new home is not recommended. The water required to sustain the health of the lawn or plants causes the soil to expand or collapse depending on the composition of the soil. This will adversely affect the load-bearing ability of the soil and may cause structural damage to the residence.
EXTERIOR COMPONENTS
VINYL, METAL OR COMPOSITE SIDING
Generally, vinyl, metal or composite siding materials will not require refinishing. Metal and composite siding materials can be re-painted, vinyl siding cannot. Due to their smooth surface, these materials can be kept clean by washing with a garden hose and mild detergent and some light scrubbing. Never use a pressure washer to clean the exterior cladding. Excessive water pressure can cause damage to the surface of the cladding and/or force water into the wall cavity. Vinyl and metal siding materials are installed loosely to allow for expansion and contraction due to the variations in the outside temperature. Damaged or very loose siding should be replaced/refastened to prevent further damage to the siding and to prevent the entry of water into the wall cavity.
WOOD SIDING
Wood siding and shingles can be cleaned with a mild detergent and a garden hose. Do not use a pressure washer to clean wood siding as this will damage the surface and force water into the pores of the wood. Painted wood siding or shingles will generally require re-painting or staining within five years. This will vary depending on the type and quality of the product used, the initial coverage, and the exposure to the elements. The siding will require re-painting or staining whenever the surface begins to fade, discolour or peel. Moisture in wood siding causes most exterior paint failures. This moisture may be from garden sprinklers, damp shrubbery close to the wall, small cracks in the siding or around door and window details. Spot repair of affected areas can sometimes extend the life of the remaining surfaces. Please note that if spot touch ups of the painted/stained surfaces are undertaken, the new paint/stain colour will likely not match that of the existing surface due to fading and weathering. This cannot be avoided. Siding installed on the south and west elevations, especially dark and bright colours which fade more rapidly, may require more frequent repainting or staining to maintain their original appearance and also to provide adequate protection for the siding. For best results, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for surface preparation. Decks, handrails and window-sills may require cleaning and “touching up” more frequently than other components of the house due to their horizontal orientation.
STUCCO
Stucco consists of a mixture of sand, lime, water and Portland cement. Conventional stucco applications, including those with an acrylic top finish coat, are not waterproof. The protection from water penetration comes from the building paper and flashing installed prior to the application of the first coat of stucco. The stucco does help in shedding water, but will become saturated after a prolonged period of rain. Control joints are installed at each floor to compensate for the movement of the building frame caused by the wood components which shrink in size as they dry. Hairline cracks may appear in the finish coat after the drying and shrinking process is complete. These cracks should be expected and it is suggested that they be left until near the end of the first year, or until all shrinkage has taken place and then, if desired, they can be repaired. Please note that the repair of the crack is often more unsightly than the original crack. Cracks less than 3mm (1/8”) in width do not require repair. Larger cracks should be sealed to prevent the entry of bulk amounts of water into the wall assembly.
Most surface dirt on stucco can be cleaned with a garden hose. A pressure washer should never be used to clean stucco surfaces as considerable damage and excessive water penetration can occur. Over time, mildew and moss can grow on any shaded surface on any type of cladding.
A mild solution of bleach and water may remove this growth.
MASONRY
Neither the mortar joints in the brickwork nor the bricks themselves are entirely waterproof. Periodically, the mortar joints should be checked for cracks. Hairline cracks are not problematic; however, if these cracks are excessive, they should be re-pointed to reduce the potential for moisture related problems. Re-pointing involves cleaning out loose mortar to a depth of at least ½” and filling the space with new mortar which is available at your local building supply store.
The bottom course of brick contains intentional openings (weep holes) which allow for the drainage of moisture from the cavity located behind the brick. These openings must remain unobstructed and must be a consideration when landscaping. White dust or staining on the masonry surface is referred to as efflorescence. It is the result of salts within the masonry or mortar that migrate to the surface of the brick with time. It can usually be controlled with water and a light scrubbing. More persistent occurrences can be washed off with muriatic acid or baking soda. Should efflorescence continually reoccur in a localized area, it may be due to a specific water source such as a leaking gutter. If so, the problem should be identified and corrected.
CAULKING
Flexible sealing compounds are generally referred to as caulking. Numerous varieties exist and have many specialized uses. Caulking is generally used to seal gaps between dissimilar materials on the exterior of the building and to seal gaps or joints in exterior finishes. As the building moves due to the shrinkage of the building framing members and/or the finishing materials themselves, considerable stress is placed on the caulking materials. While a caulking joint should never be the only means of preventing water from entering a building, it is one of the initial means of keeping water out. Therefore, caulking requires examination annually before the wet weather arrives. Any cracked or damaged caulking should be removed and replaced. When caulking, use a high quality material formulated for your specific purpose. Some caulking is for interior use or cannot be painted. Consult with your builder or local home supply centre for an appropriate product.
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